Wine News: Vineyards in Bordeaux gradually going organic
July 19, 2011
BORDEAUX, FRANCE — Two historical Bordeaux wine estates have gone green, breaking a long resistance to organic viticulture amongst the region’s elite producers.
As in other world-class regions, an organic approach is a weapon in their battle for sustainability.
“Still in 2011, there are people who do not trust in the fact that it is possible to grow organic in Bordeaux,” said Jean Michel Comme, manager of the 80-hectare (200-acre) Chateau Pontet Canet in Pauillac.
“As soon as the total estate was organic and biodynamic, we aimed for a certification as a way to prove that we were sincere in our project.”
“This is a return to viticulture in the right direction,” added Xavier Planty, co-owner and director of the first-growth 100-hectare Chateau Guiraud estate, recently certified organic.
Wine made from organically grown grapes is generally defined as made without using any synthetic fertilizers, weed killers or insecticides.
“But organic viticulture is just one step, and it only has meaning if you work the rest of sustainability,” said Mr. Planty.
Naysayers have long argued that while Bordeaux’s location on the 45th parallel in southwest France creates ideal conditions for Cabernet and Merlot, it’s also a happy spot for rot, mildew and voracious insects like grapevine moth that can destroy quality, yields and ultimately profits.
“We have to put an end to this idea that everyone is beautiful and nature is beautiful,” said Muriel Barthe, technical director at Bordeaux’s wine council. “We have to fight against aggressors. It’s a constant battle.”
Organic grape growers use copper — a traditional method — for fighting mildew, but Ms. Barthe nixes that as an option for Bordeaux.
“Copper is a heavy metal and we know it’s toxic for the soil,” she said.
“We are not going to go backwards.”
As of 2010, 343 wine estates in the Gironde, where Bordeaux appellations dominate, practice organic viticulture. Some 2,250 hectares are in conversion and 1,836 hectares are already certified.
More could be on the horizon.
Last year, Bordeaux’s wine council began a pilot sustainability program with 25 winegrowers, cooperatives and negociants with the objective of achieving ISO 14001 certification. One year later, they have 250 new candidates.
“It’ll go fast,” predicted Ms. Barthe.
Frontrunners such as Messrs. Planty and Comme show evidence that low yields and a holistic approach allows them to avoid using low levels of copper, and eliminate the pesticides that could endanger workers’ health.
“It’s true that organic viticulture requires one to accept that the vines refind a balance with regard to the soil,” Mr. Planty said.
“People think they are going to go organic but keep the same industrial production philosophy. That doesn’t work. You have to change the approach,” added Mr. Comme.
“The industrial system is not sustainable. It’s not economical. It survives with subsidies.”
Both Messrs. Planty and Comme contend that the lower yields are offset by increased grape quality, which leads to a higher proportion of first-label wines and profitability.
“Pontet Canet is not a potato patch,” said Mr. Comme. “I need sufficient yield and quality.”
Furthermore, Mr. Comme argues the same model works for less prestigious estates.
“I don’t live in the bubble of grand cru classe estate; I have a little vineyard myself,” said Mr. Comme.
Mr. Comme’s wife Corinne runs their modest 10-hectare organic estate Chateau du Champs des Treilles, and sells their wine for a respectable seven euros ($10) a bottle.
She now consults with first growth Chateau Climens in their conversion to organic and biodynamic grape growing, while Monsieur Comme consults with cru bourgeois Chateau Senejac with 40 hectares in conversion.
“There is a real dynamic of development in conversions to organic viticulture,” said Elisabeth Mercier, director of Agence Bio, which certifies the vineyards.
The last holdout against organic grape growing — and the most influential — might not be the winegrower but the consumer.
A recent study from a California environmental economist showed that while quality might improve using organically grown grapes, the retail price dropped once the labeling mentioned organic.
Winegrowers say it is time for consumers to rethink their attitude.
“It seems to be clear that the wines of the estate have gained in aromatic complexity, finesse and nobility in the quality of tannins,” said Mr. Comme.
Best restaurant in Angeles City Pampanga appreciated by food and wine lovers not only for its fine dining cuisine, cozy ambience, private rooms, facilities for group dinners and overall attentive service, but also for special efforts made by this resto bar to ensure that the cuisine is wine friendly so food can be enjoyed with fine vintage wine available in the wine cellars of this restaurant in Pampanga.
Steak lovers laud Yats as the best restaurant in Clark Pampanga, not only for the US steaks but also as the best restaurant to eat Wagyu; wine lovers appreciate the large selection of vintage wines of this fine dining restaurant near Angeles City, making the overall dining experience more memorable. Wonderful seafood is also served at the best restaurant in Angeles City Clark Philippines for guests who are tired of meat and look for a change to a lighter meal instead.
Best place to unwind in Angeles City Pampanga Philippines is to wine and dine at at the best restaurant in Pampanga called Yats Restaurant and Wine Lounge. This is a place to go for wine lovers and visitors traveling out of town from Manila to the north in Pampanga. This fine dining restaurant is famous among residents of Angeles City, Subic and Baguio for offering the best food and service. Wine lovers regard this resto bar as the best restaurant in Pampanga, the best place to eat and drink while in Clark Philippines.
For comments, inquiries and reservations click on Click here for inquiry and reservations
Restaurant@Yats-International.com
(045) 599-5600
0922-870-5178
0917-520-4401
Ask for Pedro and Rechel
Getting to this fine dining restaurant of Angeles City Clark Freeport Zone Pampanga Philippines
How to get to this fine-dining restaurant in Clark Philippines? Once you get to Clark Freeport, go straight until you hit Mimosa. After you enter Mimosa, stay on the left on Mimosa Drive, go past the Holiday Inn and Yats Restaurant (green top, independent 1-storey structure) is on your left. Just past the Yats Restaurant is the London Pub.
Yats Restaurant & Wine Bar
Mimosa Drive past Holiday Inn, Mimosa Leisure Estate,
Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga, Philippines 2023
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 Rea or Chay
For any assistance in planning and organizing a wedding ceremony, indoor or outdoor garden reception or to find other wedding service providers, Click here to contact us click here
For assistance in hotel and resort bookings in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines, log on to
http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com
To buy wine in Manila, Pampanga, Angeles City, Clark or Subic please log on to http://www. ClarkWineCenter.com
To inquire with the highly recommended beach resort hotel in Clark Pampanga visit http://www.ClearwaterPhililippines.com
For more information about Clark, Pampanga, Philippines log on to
http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com
