The dry white wine of Bordeaux
January 6, 2011
About Wines from Bordeaux
Best wine supplier in Philippines discusses wine related topics
The Dry White Wines of Bordeaux
The dry white wines of Bordeaux offer a range of tasty tipples ranging from light and refreshing sippers to serious, full-bodied and ageworthy blockbusters.
Bordeaux is most famous for its big, expensive red wines from such prestigious appellations as Margaux, Pauillac, St-Emilion, to name a few, and to a lesser extend, for its sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac, but its dry white wines have been increasingly gaining praise from the critics.
The white wines of Bordeaux have had a rather sketchy history as being wines of questionable quality. Oftentimes these wines were flabby and oxidized with an unnecessary amount of added sulphur (probably because the winemakers were more used to making sweet wines which require more sulphur.) In recent years, things have started to change and a range of different styles of dry white wines of improving quality are now being made. The wines can be refreshing, unoaked wines dominated by Sauvignon Blanc and/or Semillon, or full-bodied, barrel-aged, and ageworthy single varietals or blend of two or more grape varieties.
Grape Varieties
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon make up most dry white Bordeaux. Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris are two less important varieties that are less likely seen, but may be added to the blend.
Sauvignon Blanc: This grape – often better known from such wine regions as Sancerre in France’s Loire Valley and Marlborough in New Zealand – is also planted in Bordeaux. It is a very versatile grape that can produce light, racy, unoaked whites and more structured and complex oak-aged versions. Sauvignon Blanc is often criticized as being simple and unable to age, however, some excellent ageworthy examples are crafted from such producers as Smith-Haut-Lafitte (approximately $109 in Ontario). You may see some wines made with Sauvignon Blanc grapes referring to the grape on the label, such as the crisp and nettly Dourthe La Grande Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc ($15.95 in Ontario).
Semillon: This is the most planted white grape in the Bordeaux region. Semillon has a naturally thin skin which makes it an easy target for Noble Rot (Botrytis cinerea infection), necessary for making the sumptuous sweet wines of Bordeaux. Some rich, full-bodied dry wines with tropical fruit and honey aromas are also made with Semillon. Chateau Roquetaillade La Grange ($14.95 in Ontario) is mostly Semillon with a bit of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle blended in. Semillon is often blended with the leaner, more acidic Sauvignon Blanc to balance its plumpness.
Muscadelle: Similar to the Muscat grape, although not directly related, Muscadelle has a perfumed aroma that has many admirers. Very rarely is this grape made into a single varietal wine and almost never makes up more than 15% of any vineyard. Muscadelle is a difficult grape to grow so many growers won’t bother with it. It is sometimes seen as a minor component in dry and sweet white blends.
Sauvignon Gris: This offshoot of the Sauvignon Blanc grape has developed a following in the Graves region of Bordeaux where some estates, such as Chateaux Monbousquet ($105 in Ontario), Pape-Clement ($269 in Ontario), Rahoul, and even the famous Pessac-Leognan estate Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, have adopted it. Sauvignon Gris has a pinkish-coloured skin and instead of the citrus and grassy aromas and flavours of Sauvignon Blanc, it has a rounder, more floral character.
Principal Dry White Bordeaux Appellations
Bordeaux AOP: Many of the dry white wines of Bordeaux are classified simply as Bordeaux AOC (changed recently to AOP). In fact, 60% of all dry white wine produced in Bordeaux uses this appellation. Many styles of dry whites are classified with this appellation, from fresh, crisp, and fruity wines for early consumption to more full-bodied, barrel-aged examples. Many Bordeaux AOP wines can be purchased at quite reasonable prices. A couple of good examples are Chateau d’Argadens Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, $16.95 in Ontario), and Mouton Cadet Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc, $13.95 in Ontario).
Entre-Deux-Mers AOP: After Bordeaux AOP, this is the largest dry white wine appellation in Bordeaux. Wines sold as Entre-Deux-Mers must be dry whites and are mainly made with Sauvignon Blanc together with Semillon and Muscadelle. Most of these wines are light and easy-drinking and should be consumed as young as possible. Many Entre-Deux-Mers whites can be considered ‘cheap and cheerful’ wines – tasty, but not too complex. Andre Lurton’s Chateau Bonnet White ($13.95 in Ontario) is a tasty example.
Graves AOP: Graves is Bordeaux’s only region that is famous for both its red and white wines. It is in this region that more serious, barrel-aged, sometimes barrel fermented dry whites can be found. Most are a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Look for Chateau Haut Selve for a nicely oaked version of Semillon ($21.95 in Ontario).
Pessac-Leognan AOP: This appellation is also for both red and white wines and was established in 1987 for what is considered to be the best vineyards of the larger Graves region. It is still often referred to as Graves. Famous chateaux include Haut-Brion, La Mission-Haut-Brion, Pape-Clement, and Marlartic-Lagraviere. The white wines from this region can be included among the most complex white wines in the world. Sauvignon Blanc must make up at least 25% of the blend usually with Semillon. These wines will, for the most part, be barrel-fermented and barrel-aged, and some of the best can be successfully cellared for decades. Chateau de Rochemorin Blanc (also by Andre Lurton) is a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, aged in oak, that will keep well for up to 5 years ($24.95 in Ontario).
Choosing a Dry White Bordeaux
It is very difficult to determine the style of wine in the bottle as there is usually no indication on the label. The price may give some indication as the less expensive wines are more likely to be the light and refreshing versions, and less likely to be barrel-aged. Ageing wine in barrels usually drives the price up a bit due to the high cost of purchasing the barrels. The more expensive wines will typically be fuller-bodied, more complex, and are more likely to be barrel-aged.
Source: http://www.suite101.com/content/the-dry-white-wines-of-bordeaux-a270090
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