Tasting Notes for the Cuvées, 2010 Vintage
RED WINES
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Dames Hospitalières
Purple-garnet of medium depth, with cherry, red fruits aromas, very fresh. The palate follows the nose precisely, showing ebullient fruit, freshness, and real finesse, with a mild finish and gentle tannins. This will be enjoyable soon after bottling.
Pommard 1er Cru, Cuvée Dames de la Charité
Beautiful, rich colour, the nose being complex and spicey, with fresh, black fruits character. This is well-structured, with concentrated fruitiness, and classic harmony. The texture is mouth-coating and silky, reflecting a proportion of whole bunches having been retained for the fermentation. Tannins are ripe and well-judged, the finish being fresh and long, promising superb development. A magnificent wine, for medium and long-term maturation.
Volnay 1er Cru, Cuvée Général Muteau
Colour is garnet-purple of medium depth, the aromas being frank, freshly fruity and very elegant. On the palate, this is full of life, with most attractive fruitiness, beautiful mid-palate and delicate, fine length. For lovers of Volnay, this wine encapsulates the village’s harmonious fruitiness and silky texture, with remarkable precision.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Guigone de Salins
Garnet-purple of medium depth, the nose showing open, ripe fruitiness, which is well complemented by the rich toastiness of its fine, new oak barrels. This wine is of medium structure, showing exceptional elegance and harmony, with gentle tannins and lovely length.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cuvée Cyrot-Chaudron
There are two Cuvée names for the Hospices’s Clos de la Roche. 3 barrels of Cuvée Cyrot-Chaudron were made in 2010, and 3 of Cuvée Georges Kritter. They fermented in one vat, then were given the names of two different, generous, recent benefactors, who each donated funds to buy the vineyards.
In colour, this is an impressively deep, rich purple, the nose showing powerful, ripe, black fruitiness, very complex. The palate is full-bodied and fleshy, all the way through – with distinguished spiciness and succulent texture. Acidity is gentle, tannins are fully rounded and supple, the aftertaste being long-lingering, with beguiling, silky texture. This is a seductive, great wine, whose complexities can set the senses reeling.
Corton Grand Cru, Cuvée Charlotte Dumay
This is purple-red of medium depth, the nose being fully ripened, with rich complexity. Palate is full-bodied and fleshy, showing real finesse, with persistent, intense fruit concentration. Whole bunches contribute to the complexity of this wine, which has classic Corton structure, allied with unusually beautiful elegance, for the hillside. It is a great wine for medium and long-term maturing, with luscious fruitiness and beautiful length.
Beaune-Grèves 1er Cru, Cuvée Pierre Floquet
In colour, bright garnet-purple of medium depth, with fragrant, complex, beautiful aromas. The palate shows the remarkable, silky elegance for which this great First Growth is famous. The vines are situated on the sweet spot of the hillside, and every element in this wine is delicately poised: fruit intensity, creamy texture, fresh aftertaste, mouth-coating, gentle tannins, long-lingering aftertaste. It promises to develop into a wine of the most charming complexity.
Pommard-Epenots 1er Cru, Cuvée Dom Goblet
In colour, this is a beautiful, light-catching garnet-purple, the nose showing fully ripened, delicate, fresh fruitiness, including candied cherries. The palate is charmingly crafted, as amateurs expect from Les Epenots, which is the finest of Pommard’s First Growths. It epitomizes this village’s wines at their most seductive, creamily textured and elegant. The 2010 will surely delight those lucky tasters who have experienced the 2007 vintage of this wine, which was the first to be separately vinified at the Hospices, carrying the First Growth name. The 2007 vintage was not included in the annual auction, but the bottles are part of the Hôtel-Dieu’s Reserves – and uncorked, from time to time, at Hospices tastings and banquets.
Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Duresses, Cuvée Boillot
As happened for the previous, three vintages, these 2010 grapes were allowed to hang exceptionally long, producing superbly ripe bunches. Their natural sugars have given a wine with 13.2 degrees of alcohol, the colour being impressively purple-red, the nose showing clean, ripe cherry character. The palate is full-structured, with intense, sustained red fruitiness, and beautiful, long-flavoured aftertaste. Tannins are powerful yet well-ripened, the finish being fleshy and long, promising great development.
Volnay 1er Cru, Cuvée Blondeau
Strikingly deep purple-red for the vintage, with fresh, black fruits aromas, mingled with Dijon fruit-cake (pain d’épice). On the palate, this is fleshy and succulent, with strikingly concentrated fruitiness, allied to creamy texture, mouth-filling, lovely tannins, and real finesse on the finish. A marvellous First Growth Volnay, this has decades ahead of it, and is the most outstanding Cuvée Blondeau we have seen since 2005, in my view (well ahead of the 2009).
Pommard, Cuvée Billardet
Purple red of medium depth, this shows clean, pure, complex aromas, both rich and attractive. On the palate, harmonious is the word to describe it – for the wine has ample fruitiness, fine tannins, agreable freshness, lovely length. It is a beautifully judged example of Pommard wine-making which will make happy both those who like to try their wines when they receive them, and those who like to put down reserves for the future.
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cuvée Madeleine Collignon
This has impressively deep, rich purple colour, with ripely elegant, black fruits aromas, very spectacular. The concentrated, dense fruitiness of this wine, allied to its remarkable, fresh purity, sets it apart. Its texture is voluptuous and creamy, thanks to mouth-coating tannins which are subtle and gentle. This is the greatest red in the cellar for mid- and long-term keeping, with a striking power-surge of flavours on the finish. For richness, harmony, complexity and length of aftertaste, this is a completely exceptional, great wine.
Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru, Cuvée Baronne du Baÿ
It is a great vintage for Cortons at the Hospices de Beaune, and impossible to deny the striking beauty, complexity and length of this one. The purple-garnet colour refracts the light appealingly; the nose is subtly perfumed, showing fresh cherries, gently spicey. This is no block-buster, but a wine of strikingly harmonious richness, and great length. In texture, this is fleshily complete throughout the middle palate, with succulent, silky, elegant aftertaste. Gentle tannins will ensure outstanding development, giving pleasures to astonish us.
Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru, Cuvée Jéhan de Massol
Volnay-Santenots is regularly amongst the first vineyards of the Hospices Domaine to ripen, reflecting its position at the heart of one of Burgundy’s most perfect vineyard slopes. The grapes catch the rising sun, the pebbles reflect its warmth, the drainage is immaculate – everything is in place to favour ideal fruit ripening. This wine is an impressively beautiful, purple-red in colour, with the freshest imaginable aromas, recalling just-picked strawberries and cherries. The palate is fleshy, dense, mouth-coatingly textured and seductively creamy. The flavours cling to the mouth, and linger exceptionally. This is a very great wine, with a beauty, when mature, which will completely overshadow the moon and the flowers, and cause the heart to leap.
WHITE WINES
Meursault-Genevrières 1er Cru, Cuvée Philippe le Bon
Very clean aromas emerge from these barrels, showing notes of pear, and golden peaches. The wine is rich and creamy, evidently coming from fully ripened, concentrated grapes, which account for its roundness and great length. This is a superbly ripe, classic Meursault.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Cuvée François de Salins
The grapes in this vineyard were small, and reached superb maturity before picking. The wine fermented slowly, giving aromas which are now clear, spicy and very complex. On the palate, it is full-structured, showing sumptuous richness and fruit intensity in middle palate, fine acidity and seductive, luscious length. This is undoubtedly one of the greatest whites in the Hospices cellar, and will prove to be sensational in bottle.
Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru, Cuvée Albert Grivault
This vineyard is situated at the heart of the finest section of Les Charmes dessus, and often gives wines of the greatest, powerful opulence. In 2010, in addition to its richness, the wine shows intense minerality, with creamy texture, acidity in fine balance and outstandingly beautiful, complex length.
Meursault-Genevrières 1er Cru, Cuvée Baudot
This wine is fragrant with citrus, white peach and pear aromas. The palate has concentrated fruitiness, with intense minerality, lovely harmony and a long, crisp finish. Complete, fresh and appetizing, it has great potential, thanks to its natural balance and already complex aftertastes.
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cuvée Dames de Flandres
Walking through the vineyard just ahead of picking, I was astounded by the high proportion of tiny, golden berries, their skins freckled in the sunshine, and the beauty of the carefully-spaced, small grape-bunches. Aromas of the finished wine are fragrant, concentrated and remarkably complex. On the palate, power is allied to vital fruit intensity in remarkable harmony. The wine is super-ripe, succulent, vigorous and creamy, with outstanding length of aftertaste. This is an enthralling, great Bâtard-Montrachet.
Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru, Cuvée Paul Chanson
Located three hundred metres downhill from the vineyard of Corton-Charlemagne Cuvée du Roi Soleil, this wine has a totally different flavour profile, being less mineral, with more generous, opulent fleshiness. The nose is strikingly open, with notes of grapefruit and pineapple, but – so close to the end of fermentation – these aromas are evolving, day by day. The palate is full-bodied and round, leading into outstanding, creamily-textured length.
Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru, Cuvée de Bahèzre de Lanlay
For those who love Meursault-Charmes for its combination of fresh minerality with spectacular fruit, this Cuvée in 2010 will tick all the boxes. Aromas are complex, with apricot and citrus elements. The palate has striking fruit intensity, great elegance and lovely length.
Meursault, Cuvée Goureau
Nearly half of this Cuvée – 48% – comes from old vines in First Growth Les Porusots, which account for its sumptuous richness and impressive length. Natural sugars were exceptionally high, giving a powerful, luscious wine which will make flamboyant, youthful drinking.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Cuvée du Roi Soleil
- previously known as Cuvée Charlotte Dumay
These vineyards face due east, and lie high on the Corton hill. The vines’ roots, planted 9 years ago, have now penetrated deeply into the limestone, and the wine has achieved, with this vintage, an opulence of fruit, with rich structure, which have never previously been seen. The nose is very fine, evoking pears and white peaches. The palate is full-bodied and sumptuous, with characteristic minerality, and intense, exceptionally fresh, long aftertaste. This is a magnificent Corton-Charlemagne, and now challenging its sister-wine, Cuvée Francois de Salins, for pre-eminence in the Hospices cellar.
RED WINES
Santenay, Cuvée Christine Friedberg
This comes from a vineyard, Les Hâtes, which is just uphill from Santenay village, and is bordered by First Growths. The wine has attractive purple-ruby colour of medium depth, with fresh, raspberry aromas, very pretty. The palate shows good fruit and roundness, with a refreshingly fine, gentle finish. It promises to make delicious drinking, from its bottling onwards.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Nicolas Rolin
This is rich, purple-red in colour, with very fruity, elegant aromas, including kirsch. The wine has impressive structure and notable fruit intensity, combining total ripeness with superb, fresh aftertaste in perfect harmony. Nicolas Rolin is made from a high proportion of really fine Pinot plants, with small bunches and tiny berries.
(A tonneau, holding 500-litres, of this wine will be the Pièce des Présidents in 2010, sold in aid of specified causes).
Corton Grand Cru, Cuvée Dr. Peste
This is garnet-purple of medium depth, with very fresh aromas, including cherry, plum and raspberry. The palate is full-bodied and structured – more solid and tannic than Corton Cuvée Charlotte Dumay, as is often the case. The character of Corton Dr. Peste is well delineated, and the wine will prove magnificent, particularly after several years bottle-age. There is neither astringency nor bitterness, but super complexity. Whole bunches contribute to its succulent texture, and exceptional length of aftertaste.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cuvée Georges Kritter
There are two Cuvée names for the Hospices’s Clos de la Roche. 3 barrels of Cuvée Cyrot-Chaudron were made in 2010, and 3 of Cuvée Georges Kritter. They fermented in one vat, then were given the names of two different, generous, recent benefactors, who each donated funds to buy the vineyards.
Tasting note, same as Cuvée Cyrot-Chaudron: In colour, this is an impressively deep, rich purple, the nose showing powerful, ripe, black fruitiness, very complex. The palate is full-bodied and fleshy, all the way through – with distinguished spiciness and succulent texture. Acidity is gentle, tannins are fully rounded and supple, the aftertaste being long-lingering, with beguiling, silky texture. This is a seductive, great wine, whose complexities can set the senses reeling.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Clos des Avaux
Colour is bright purple-red of medium depth, aromas being complex, ripe and very appetising. On the palate, this is richly fruity, with freshness, and a lovely finish, showing harmony and fine intensity.
Pommard, Cuvée Raymond Cyrot
First Growths represent 57% of this Cuvée, coming from Charmots, Bertins and les Rugiens bas. Colour is medium red-purple, the nose being ripe, with freshness. On the palate, a full start leads into a middle-palate with stuffing, and a rich, gently tannic, beautiful farewell. This wine’s charms take time to unfurl, so consider this for medium-term ageing.
Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru, Cuvée Gauvain
In colour, this is beautiful, purple-ruby, with aromas of fresh, red fruits, and subtle spicyness. On the palate, finesse and structure are both remarkable, as we hope to find with the greatest Volnays. This wine has remarkable fruit intensity, with a mouth-coating silky texture which is totally beguiling. Tannins are gentle but present, to ensure harmonious ageing, the finish being impressively long and lovely.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Brunet
Steep-sloped Les Bressandes gave a naturally small harvest, and in Les Teurons, there had been some loss of crop, due to spring frost. Rigorous sorting of the grapes then played its part in delivering a smaller-sized Cuvée Brunet than is usual, but the result is excellent. Colour is red-purple of medium depth, the nose being open, ripe and complex. Palate is full and fleshy. This is not an early-drinking charmer, but a classic Beaune for mid-term keeping. When mature, it should be opened on a winter’s evening, and allowed to work its magic round a leaping fire.
WHITE WINES
Saint-Romain (blanc), Cuvée Joseph Menault
This wine comes from two plots in Saint-Romain at different altitudes, with just 50 metres between them. Four extra days was allowed, to permit the grapes from Sous la Velle to reach the full maturity that had earlier been achieved in the south-facing, higher, Le Village Haut plot. That vineyard touches scrubland, and is protected from the depredations of wild boar – who will eat the grapes, if given the chance – by carefully installed, electric fencing.
The two harvests were assembled, to ferment together. The result is a wine of green-lemon colour, with lovely aromas of pear and lemon. The palate shows open, fully-ripened fruitiness, with charming structure and length. This is definitely ahead of the 2009 in quality, balance and complexity.
Meursault-Porusots 1er Cru, Cuvée Jéhan Humblot
Aromas here are very fragrant, fresh and fine – like a ripening melon. The wine is excellently balanced, without excessive richness or high acidity. It is an intense, exciting Meursault, with dense fruitiness, which will mature crisply and harmoniously.
Pouilly-Fuissé, Cuvée Françoise Poisard
The harvest was reduced here by a passing hail-storm, but the grapes were carefully brought to sumptuous maturity, with high natural sugars. This wine is remarkable for its power and sweetness on the middle-palate, rather than its minerality, and it fills the mouth impressively – for early enjoyment, I surmise.
Meursault, Cuvée Loppin
The nose is fresh and clean and the palate powerful, thanks to sugar-rich juices, at harvest-time. Those sugars were not yet finished, and the secondary, malo-lactic fermentation had of course not begun, so it was hard to be categoric about the wine’s final style. But this strikes me as a Meursault which will develop that rich butteriness which traditionalists seek, but often have difficulty finding. It will be remarkable for its opulence, and mouth-filling, creamy texture.
RED WINES
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Maurice Drouhin
Colour here is an impressive, garnet-purple, the nose showing ripe, cherry character, which is frank and fresh. Palate is medium-bodied, with succulent fruitiness, agreeable middle-palate, fine finish and lovely harmony. This wine can be enjoyed when youthful, and certainly also bottled for a decade or more’s beneficial ageing; into larger formats, as well, for the longer haul.
Monthelie 1er Cru Les Duresses, Cuvée Lebelin
This First Growth vineyard is located in a narrow valley, and benefits from extra hang-time, to bring the grapes to perfect ripeness. This was certainly achieved in 2010, giving a wine of pretty, medium deep, purple-garnet colour. The aromas recall both blackberries and black-currants, very clean and fresh. The palate shows fine fruit, which is well-sustained from start to finish. Aftertaste is lively and interesting, the whole being very prettily balanced.
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Forneret
The majority of this Cuvée comes from les Vergelesses, which many would rate as Savigny’s most richly harmonious Premier Cru. Colour is impressive, purple-red, the nose being open, fresh and ripe. The palate shows elegant fruit, right from the start, which is confirmed in mid-taste, with creamy, dense texture, and mouth-coating, lovely finish.
Pommard, Cuvée Suzanne Chaudron
Pretty, purple-red in colour, with fresh aromas which are clean and appetising. This starts agreeably, leading into a well-structured middle palate, with pleasant, gentle tannins and a lively, fresh finish.
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Arthur Girard
This comes 100% from 1st Growth Les Peuillets, near the Beaune commune border. Nearly always the finest and most aromatic of the three Savigny Cuvées, in 2010 it stays true to type. Colour is an attractive, beautiful purple, the nose being aromatic and fine. On the palate, we find elegant fruitiness, with flesh and harmony, the tannins being gentle, with charming aftertaste.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Rousseau-Deslandes
This was picked towards the end of the harvest, and had impressive, natural sugars and richly ripened grape-skins. The colour is red-purple of medium depth, the aromas being complex, spicy and decidedly fresh. The palate shows rich structure, dense fruitiness, and mouth-coating, gentle tannins. The wine has impressive stuffing, finishing rich and long.
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru, Cuvée Rameau-Lamarosse
This has attractive, purple-garnet colour, the nose being clean and fresh, with smokeyness. On the palate, this shows immediate, lively fruitiness, with medium-weight structure and refreshing, gentle aftertaste. Aging in one-year-old barrels, it is destined to give pleasure while youthful after bottling, with future development being assured, thanks to its fine balance.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Hugues et Louis Bétault
Please note that this Cuvée is ageing in new oak barrels, not, as stated in the catalogue, in one-year-old barrels. Colour is medium deep, red-purple, the nose being very pretty, open and frank. On the palate, this is a harmonious wine of medium body, with gentle, charming fruit. It does not have the structure of the biggest, late-harvested Beaunes, but its purity and clear, fresh fruitiness will allow it to mature for relatively early drinking.
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Fouquerand
In colour, this is an impressive purple-red, the aromas being rich and fresh, recalling ripe plums. It is a wine with broad shoulders, whose torso is well fleshed out. The middle palate is rich and round, with strikingly earthy character which surely prepares the wine to accompany game, beef, spicy dishes and well-matured cheeses. The finish is fresh with powerful tannins, which will benefit from 2-3 years bottle age, to allow them to soften.
Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Cyrot-Chaudron
This has fine, garnet-purple colour, with open, ripely spicey aromas. The palate does not show explosive, fresh fruitiness, but rather a dense, mouth-coating, fully ripened character, reflecting its having been harvested one week after the vintage began, at full maturity. Its high-lying, First Growth vineyard is Les Montrevenots, which over-looks Pommard, where one third of the vines date from 1929. The wine has good stuffing, harmonious middle-palate, and very interesting balance.
Anthony Hanson MW
12 November 2010
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