Paras: The Tayag Touch

By Mina Paras
Spectrum
Wednesday, June 8, 2011

THE Tayags of Angeles City share three things: they all love good food, they all play tennis, and they all study at UP. Thus, many of them are involved in either food production and/or retail (Mother Earth of Abong, the restaurant of Carmen “Meng” McTavish in Clark (now closed), Doren’s cakes. They also produced a chef in the family, Claude. Let’s not forget that the long running most popular restaurant Trellis in Quezon City has Abong’s cousin Dan Tayag for a partner, and Dan and Vina’s (Ocampo) two children are also now chefs.
My classmate and barkada through high school, Doren, used to bring me home for lunch when we were in Grade 6. We just had to cross the street from Holy Family Academy to their house by the brook, aptly named Brookside. This was later donated to Angeles City where the library now stands. Their mother, Adoracion (Doren’s namesake) was probably used to having friends of her children over for a meal. And the table was always full with various dishes, and that’s how I got my first taste of the Tayag touch.
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Mang During, 90, passed away last week after a lingering illness, most of the time at the ICU of the Philippine Heart Center, where, komareng Ely Narciso (a former director of the CDC) said, half in jest, that the family already had one post of the hospital in their name.
Doren related that, though there were plenty of offers for the siblings — all 12 of them — to stay at their brother’s house, very near the hospital, and other friends’ houses in Quezon City, the siblings declined all the offers and opted to stay close to their mother during her confinement.
Doren told me that they got the room next to the ICU, where the ones from Angeles City could take showers, change clothes and rest, like in a hotel. Except that this was not a hotel, and the only way they could get a room was if someone among them was, ah, confined for a checkup.
Do said it was Atching Meng (married to Bruce McTavish and you all know who he is) who opted to be the one. “Sometimes they would look for her and she’s out,” Doren smiles. “The nurses had to get her vitals every so often during the day.”
I got to know many of the children in later years, when the family had moved to Villa Gloria, where some of the best tennis players play.
Most of all, I came to know Claude when he was just starting to paint. I’d tell friends from Manila, ‘Oh, I knew Claude when he was in short pants.’ It’s true, though. Claude, who’s become not only a noted painter, but also a sculptor and furniture designer, chef of the first caliber, author and food columnist. I remember Claude saying that his father, the late Renato ‘Katoks’ Tayag encouraged him to try writing; the first published piece he wrote was about his father. Now Claude has a book to his name.
Used to be, Claude’s wife Mary Anne (from the Quiocs of Mabalacat) told me that eating at wakes was not encouraged. Before, and even now, only the barest was served: hard candies, coffee, juice in tetrapacks, cupcakes, and the ubiquitous butong pakwan. Customs and traditions change and people started serving real food. “I think it started in Bacolor,” Maryanne says.
Now, especially among the well-heeled, food is catered.
It’s funny, but if I ever do a food article on the best dishes, I’d include some I tasted in wakes. Like the super yummy bibingka and puto bungbung which I sampled during the wakes of Chichos’ mother Mrs. Leonor Luciano, and komareng Tessie Villarama’s mom. Were I not overcome with hiya and a waistline that was bulging out of my pants, I would have gotten second helpings of everything.
Then there’s Claude’s arroz caldo or lelot, where you ladle the rice broth in your bowl, then pile on the ingredients that you like — mine was chicken and some tokwa’t baboy — the toasted garlic and the thinly sliced parsley. I was about to put some patis on my bowl, but Claude stopped me. “You must try this,” he said, pouring on a suka with garlic “which is first press,” he added “and it’s called tulo”. The effect was fabulous. Refreshing broth with bits of chicken and tiny crispy pork. Toby de la Cruz, a cousin of Maryanne, remarked: “I may never be satisfied with any other lelot again.”
Back to Mang During, Claude long ago told me that his late father told his children that the best thing that he did for them was choosing their mother, the former Adoracion Suarez. That is the sweetest thing one can ever say of a loved one.

Source: http://www.sunstar.com.ph/pampanga/opinion/2011/06/08/paras-tayag-touch-160084

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