Not all private labels are alike
When I was a young buck wine merchant, back in the day, I used to look forward to visits from John Avery, of Avery’s of Bristol, an English wine broker and negociant. A “negociant” is someone who buys wine from someone else and then bottles it under his own label.
Being a negociant is a very old and noble profession in Europe, begun in the years when winemakers weren’t bottling and shipping businesses too. A negociant was a wine’s necessary link to a family’s table.
Avery would always show me a slew of reds from Burgundy, each with labels that simply said “Avery’s Bourgogne Rouge.” In order to distinguish one Bourgogne Rouge from another, Avery had given them all magical monikers, such as Cardinal Richelieu or Eminence de Cluny.
Avery swore the wine inside was a lot more than mere Bourgogne Rouge. “Cardinal Richelieu is declassified Gevrey-Chambertin; he is, Bill.”
Was he? I had no idea. All I knew is that the wine was superlative red Burgundy and instead of selling for $75, as a good Gevrey-Chambertin would, “Cardinal Richelieu” went home with my many happy customers for just $20.
I trusted John Avery; my customers trusted me. Everyone went to bed with a smile.
Many John Averys abound today; well, lots of John Avery types. They buy wine from someone else and label it as their own. Such wines are everywhere, behind the “private labels” at Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s and Costco. They’re brandished on online “wine clubs” such as wsjwine.com, zagatwine.com or vinesse.com where you can buy six or a dozen “richly rewarding wines” delivered to your door monthly for “one low price.”
All the wines, both in the stores and on the sites, claim to be “expertly selected,” as I am sure they are. You can get your money back “if any wine ever fails to delight,” as I am sure you can.
But you or I have no idea ahead of time, before whipping out the credit card at the store or boldly going into cyberspace, if anything behind the label is really, truly, actually any good.
We need our John Averys. (My friend the John Avery died of a heart attack in March.) I have a couple John Averys to recommend to you. I trust them; so can you.
Since 2001, Cameron Hughes has sold wine under his name (and some spinoffs such as Hughes Wellman or Zin Your Face). His portfolio, widely distributed across the country in stores such as Costco, Sam’s Club and Whole Foods and from his website chwine.com, offers wines from both hemispheres and several countries.
A second negociant label, Boston-based 90+ Cellars, isn’t distributed as widely, but it’s gaining in retail outlets outside its primary market of the Northeast U.S.
These two new-age negociants sell wine that they buy on the spot market (that is, already finished wine that would otherwise sell under a winery’s own label). In addition, Hughes “takes up excess capacity,” he says, “at wineries or with grape growers” and, employing two winemakers, crafts wine as a “virtual winery” at diverse cellars around the world before bottling it behind one of his labels.
The great lure of wine from these two sellers is, as it was with Avery’s of Bristol, the spread between the price you’d pay for the wine as it would sell from its own place of origin and the price Hughes or 90+ Cellars charges for it. The difference is always substantial.
http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/food/sc-food-0518-wine-private-label-20120523,0,7907987.story
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